Historical Background
The Kit
1. 4./StG 77 Russia, Summer 1941 (RLM 70/71/65) (Note: I believe the markings were actually dated prior to Operation Barbarossa, as there was no yellow theatre band)
2. 2./StG 2 (Eastern Front, judging by the RLM 04 nose and fuselage band) (RLM 70/71/65)
3. 3./StG 5 Leningrad, 1942 (white distemper camouflage)
Construction
The cockpit gets the first attention, as usual. The detail for it is adequate for OOB builders like me, although there are no seat belts, even as a decal. On the real aircraft, the gunner/radio operator's seat is made of metal frames which Hasegawa managed to capture its shape well (for injection-moulded plastic that is). The parts are painted while still on their sprues; Tamiya XF-22 RLM Grey for the basic cockpit colour and XF-64 Red Brown and XF-1 Flat Black for detail paintings. The parts were then cut off the sprue and cemented together. The sprue gate scars were then touched up. The sidewalls were cemented to their respective fuselage halves and the latter were then cemented together with the cockpit trapped in-between. Fit is good although I still need to clamp the fuselage halves together as the cement dries. The instrument panel installation is slightly different; the parts are cemented onto a small section of the upper nose fairing. The assembly was then cemented onto the main fuselage. The engine cowling was separate and consists of three main parts. There was no problem here although I was bit concerned about the bomb crutches which is to be installed at this stage. Another thing is that the propellers are also installed at the same stage. I tried dry-fitting the engine cowling and found a perfect fit with the fuselage so decided just to temporarily tack the engine to the fuselage, broke it off after painting and install the propellers later on. The bomb crutches were cemented as I judged that it won't get much in a way like an aerial or pitot probe would.
Before assembling the wings, holes were drilled into the one-piece lower wing for the dive brakes and the wing bomb pylons. The upper wing halves fitted snugly to the bottom and left to dry. The wing assembly felt solid in my hands and I then proceeded to glue it to the fuselage. But before that I cemented the bomb release observation window. The wing gun fairings were then fitted, although not the gun barrels themselves. The landing light in the port wing is just a hollow cut-out in the wing and should at least be blanked off with plastic card. As usual I forgot to do that, and only remembered after the cement on the clear fairing had dried.....It should also be noted that Hasegawa molded the flap actuator linkages as a solid triangle. To enhance the look, they should be cut and replaced with plastic rods or something similar - I left them as they were. The tailplanes were then cemented although the support struts were left off to ease painting. I did dry-fit them and discovered that the pre-drilled holes in the fuselage were too low. The holes were filled and instead of drilling new holes, I just cut the locating tabs off and fit the struts using Mk1 Eyeball later on.
The spatted undercarriage presented a problem as it would be very hard to paint the tyres inside them. To counter that, I shaved just a bit of the locating pins on the wheels so that I can pop them through after painting. The inside of the wheel spats were painted RLM 65 and the wheel spat halves were cemented together. The wheels spats were fitted with the Jericho trumpet housing, although no propellers were included, just fairings for them. Hasegawa indicated that the siren housing was only applicable to the second marking option (which I had chosen beforehand) and should be removed for the rest of the marking options. The wheel spats were however left off to facilitate painting, although their wing fairings were cemented to the lower wings. The wing bomb pylons were the last parts I glued before moving to the painting stage.
The spatted undercarriage presented a problem as it would be very hard to paint the tyres inside them. To counter that, I shaved just a bit of the locating pins on the wheels so that I can pop them through after painting. The inside of the wheel spats were painted RLM 65 and the wheel spat halves were cemented together. The wheels spats were fitted with the Jericho trumpet housing, although no propellers were included, just fairings for them. Hasegawa indicated that the siren housing was only applicable to the second marking option (which I had chosen beforehand) and should be removed for the rest of the marking options. The wheel spats were however left off to facilitate painting, although their wing fairings were cemented to the lower wings. The wing bomb pylons were the last parts I glued before moving to the painting stage.
Painting and Decaling
Selection of the painting scheme was easy. I ruled out Scheme 3 as I have run out of rattle-can white paints and I don't trust my ability to brush-paint whites for the entire model. That left the other two and I chose #2 as it added some more colour to the model. I first painted the lower half of the aircraft RLM 65 Hellblau using Gunze Sangyo Aqueous H67. For the upper fuselage colours, I first painted RLM 71 Dunkelgrun overall using Gunze Sangyo Aqueous H64. As mentioned before, Hasegawa provided paper masks for this kit. I however only used them to mark the demarcation lines and instead used Tamiya tapes for the actual masking. For RLM 70 Schwarzgrun, I used Tamiya XF-27 Black Green. The canopies were also painted at this time but separately. Once the camouflage paints were cured, I marked the demarcation line, also using Tamiya tapes and painted Tamiya XF-3 Flat Yellow on the nose.
Then it was time for the decals. The Gunze Sangyo paints dried with semi-gloss sheen so that no extra layer of gloss clear was needed. The Tamiya paint however dried flat, so the areas covered by it were varnished with a bit of Tamiya X-22 Clear. So that I won't forget if done later, the interior frame decals were placed first at the canopy. The decals are of typical Hasegawa vintage from the 1990s - rather thick and having off-white white. While OK for flat areas and needing just a swab of Mr Mark Softer, the same cannot be said for the theatre band and unit markings, as they were situated at curvy areas and were subjected to repeated Mr Mark Softer bath.
The still loose parts can now be permanently fixed onto the model. I started with the landing gear spats, so that the model can stand on its own while I glued the rest of the parts. This was followed by the tail wheel and the tailplane stabiliser struts. The nose was taken off in order to install the propeller. Hasegawa engineered the propeller to be moveable but I found that the assembly was quite wobbly and I had to permanently glue it. The Stuka's usual payload of a single SC500 500kg and four SC50 50kg bombs were assembled, painted Flat Black and fixed to the bomb crutch and underwing pylons. Other small, fragile fittings such as the wing machine gun barrels/muzzles and pitot tube can finally be added, followed by the cockpit transparencies and not forgetting the radio aerial and the rear MG 15 machine gun. The model was then subjected to a medium grey sludge wash for the undersides and the usual black-brown wash for the upper fuselage.
Conclusion
First, I must say that for anyone building up a collection of World War 2 aircraft, the Stuka is a must in their collection. and for those building 1/48 scale warbirds, the Hasegawa offering is the kit to go, not least because it includes the evil swastika decals, something usually missing from most European brands. While there is no perfect kit, the Hasegawa Stuka is close enough with that solid flap actuators and the blank landing light recess being its major shortcomings. The parts fit well however and I really enjoyed the build.
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